Hair Color Wednesday!! Corrective Color: Dark Brown To Light Golden Blonde

One segment we have gotten away from that we promise to bring back is Hair Color Wednesday.

It's back!!

So... what the hell is it? It is everything hair color all day every wednesday. That's Formulas, Correction Ideas, Trends and anything else that relates to hair color for hairstylists and enthusiasts.

What better way to kick off this Hair Color Wednesday than a corrective hair color formula?

Well that is exactly what your getting :)

Here it goes......

This is where we started:

This is where we finished!:

So HOW DID WE DO IT?

EASY!!!

LETS BREAK IT DOWN:

The first step is to breathe! Really taking someone to a darkest brown to any color is not as stressful as you think. 

When doing this we need to understand that color affects color and creates an effect to color. Think about that for a second...........

Ok got it......? GOOD, lets move on.

Now with that said we can begin to understand that we do not need to change her entire hair color, we only need to enhance it. Enhance it A LOT, YES! But enhance not change. Why? because we can use that dark color that is in her hair already to create a beautiful depth and shadowing effect that will help to bring out the light pieces a lot more.

So.... what do I mean? In simple terms..... tons and tons and tons of highlights. 

However, before we can do that we MUST do a clarifying based treatment. Get all the crap we don't want in the hair, out! My recommendation: Malibu treatment or Pre Art Treatment from Redken

Step 2: Cut the aluminum foil!

Starting in the back, section the hair down from the crown to center back and from the crown to the top of the ear on each side. Begin to go through and create as many small weaved highlights as possible. My suggestion would be to never skip a section to just weave every section. Do the entire back sections increasing in strength of developer as you begin to move up to the the crown.

In between the foils apply a demi-based hair color 7 level gold from roots to ends through the entire hair.

Allow the entire back to finish processing (your goal is a level 8 Yellow Orange if applicable).

Shampoo and condition. Bring back to chair and blow dry the hair completely.

NOW DO THE FRONT. Dividing the hair into 3 sections. A mo-hwak section from the parting and the two side sections. Repeat the same coloring process including the color in between the foils and through the ends. Completely finishing the front. Allow hair to process (your goal is a level 8 Yellow Orange if applicable).

This is the most important part of your color processes. The glazing. I highly recommend you test strand your formula to conclude an accurate result. If you reach an Orange to Orange with a little Yellow, I am going to recommend to test with a Green/Yellow Base and a Blue/Gray Base. Chances our these are your best bets to maximize gold (yellow) and control unwanted reds and oranges.

Once your test is complete Glaze the entire head with your formula. 

*** You may want to consider using a lighter version of your formula on your ends if the hair is porous or extremely long. 

Glazing may also be a two application processes. If you feel you would like to see added control or richness you always have the option to glaze a second time.*** In this case we did not!

*** I would recommend using a level to two levels lighter on your second glaze for increased tone with minimal saturation. 

Once that is finished you are DONE!!!!

Hope you enjoyed... see you next week!!

Reality Star Whitney Port Sports a New Shade of Red

When your bored go Red.

That seems to be the trend right now anyways and I have no problem with that!

It's exactly what reality star Whitney Port did. Relying on colorist Johnny Ramirez of Neil George.


“I needed a change. I’ve kind of had ADD with my hair color.” 


When asked if she would be changing it up again once the summer is headed to an end, she responded saying "Probably"


New trend on it's way?.... Maybe so, either way I am loving this one and you should join in on the fun!

(In fact make sure to check out a few posts back to check out a whole slew of fun red hair color formulas - READ HERE.)

Inspirational Picture: Zoo Magazine Cover (BONUS! - includes color formula)

I am often looking for forms of inspiration! Many times we are lucky enough to find it in fashion and even lucky enough to find it on the cover of fashion magazines.

Check out this Inspirational Picture of Karen Elson (1 of 2) on the cover of this summer issue of Zoo Magazine. Also make sure to peak at the bottom of the pic for my take on the formula!

Formula - Working on a Natural Level 7 or Higher - Highlight the hair using a face framing highlighting technique. Process. Apply a deposit only 1 & 1/4 oz of 7 level Copper and 1/4 oz of 7 level Gold and 1/4 oz orange kicker throughout the hair. Process. Style.

Hair Color Question & Answer: Taking Dark To Light - Level 4 Previous Colored to Level 7

Question: 


"I graduated from Paul Mitchell in 2010..... I'm naturally a level 7, but have been dying my hair darkish for about 2 years. ....The darkest part is probably a level 4 or 5. I really want to go back to something close to my natural color all over; a level 6 or 7. In school they always told me the ONLY way to do that would be lightening, which can be very damaging. 


At this point, I'm not as concerned with the integrity of my hair as I normally am. Couldn't I use a Color Remover? Every time I go to a salon they seem to talk me out of going lighter....is color remover not used in salons? I see a lot of people go from really dark to light blonde several times....so why can't I get anyone to get my hair a few levels lighter?! I guess my main question is: what do I need to [do] so that I can get what I want?!"
-Kendra Lafferty




Answer:


Ok so there a few answers within this question. First we will tackle the process of how I would handle taking a previous colored level 4 to a level 7. 


Rather than attempting to change your entire color and use a "color remover" or "lightener" I would suggest the idea of creating a more dimensional based color and utilize some of the level 4 color that you have as a low light. Then if you still feel like you would like to have a one solid color you can do so in time. So rather than changing your hair over one "salon visit" you would do so over time. Even though the integrity of your hair is not your priority, as a hairstylist it has to be mine :)


Sounds great right!? So how would you do this exactly?? Answer..... Simple!!


Use a highlighting technique to create a lighter dimension. Using a standard full foil application pattern highlight the entire back of the head first using as many baby fine highlights as you can in order cover at least 50% of the hair. When finished with the back section... Allow this to process, do not move on to the front section.


(Lightener formulas - For fine hair 10 volume with lightener. For Medium/Coarse hair 20 volume with lightener)
** HOT TIP - Make sure when applying your sections of lightener to each foil you saturate the entire section consistently to ensure proper lift.


Once finished processing to pre-lightening to a  level 8/9 in the back. Shampoo, Condition and then Dry the Hair. 


Repeat the same process for the front/top sections.


**We are breaking up the sides to ensure a consistent lift and to ensure integrity strength to the hair. Yes it will take longer, but color correction should never be jeopardized for time.


Once the entire application has been completed and the hair is dry formalize a glaze/toner to create the desired result to which you are looking for. Utilize your color wheel to create your desired result. If a desired result is as neutral as possible make sure to use your complimentary colors... such as a red and green.


The result of this process will be a perfect level 7 with beautiful dimension and hints of low lights. If you prefer to go lighter... continue with the same processes (only picking up the darker pieces) on the next visit.




So...... To answer some of your other questions.

1. Yes salons do use color removers. It is always something to have on hand. 
2. The difference between a color remover and lightener is the level of strength and the ability to lift - in fact I am putting this in my notes to do a blog post about this!
3. If you are referring to celebrities as [seeing a lot of people going from light to dark] - always make sure to note that with celebrities there are often extensions and wig work involved, so sometimes it can be misleading. In my opinion the processes from dark - level 4 to light - level 7 is best done over time.

Do You Love Red Hair? If You Said Yes! Check Out These Trends & Red Formulas!!

I Love Red Heads! So I am constantly looking for new trends, concepts, ideas and anything else to change my Red Head formulas for the season.

In doing so I found a great article that shares a lot! This was a great article so make sure to Check It Out!

Before you do so.... I took the liberty of showing the pictures in our blog and giving you my interpretation of each look and some formula ideas. So with out any further waiting............

Everything I am seeing from these shots are Natural, Natural, Natural! Lets take those reds, incorporate some copper or gold and bring out the beauty of Natural Looking Red Heads.

Florence - From Florence & The Machine

I Love This Color!! I also love her music! With that said this color is great. It gives you a lot of vibrancy with a lot of Natural based tonalities. My formula: 1 & 1/2 oz 7 level Copper - 1/4 oz level 7 Brown Gold - 1/4 Orange Kicker (optional for added intensity)



Blake Lively

A Perfect Strawberry Blonde! My formula: 1 & 1/2 oz 9 Natural Gold - 1/2 oz 9 Gold Orange. Want to spice it up? Add a few blonde highlights with some foils to create added dimension.

 Christina Hendricks

She has been rocking this for a while and it still isn't old! My formula: 1 & 1/4 oz 6 level Copper - 1/2 oz 6 level Red Brown - 1/4 oz 7 level Neutral Gold

 Karen Elson

Very similar to the others, but a slight change to the formula. My formula: 1 1/4 oz 7 level Copper - 1/2 oz level 6 Red Brown - 1/4 Orange Kicker 

If you have any thoughts or other ideas for these formulas; We would love to hear them! Feel free to leave comments!

Make Thin Hair Look Thicker With Hair Color!

Looking to take your super fine hair and give it a fuller-thicker appearance? It's Really Easy! Here's what you do:

One of the best ways to create thickness is in the bang area or throughout the perimeter. You can do this with color and creating depth. It's what I refer to as shadowing.

Shadowing is very very simple. 

For the bang area - Formulate a color at least 2 shades darker than your base formula. Use no more than about 2-4 foils and starting at the front hair line of the bangs, place your first foil in a weaving manner. Continue working your way up to the crown, in horizontal sections, making sure to never expose the darker color on the part line.

For the perimeter of the hair - Formulate a color at least 2 shades darker than your base formula. Out line the entire hair line, including front and back. Using foil apply a baby fine slice fore each section, in a horizontal manner, then skip a section and apply another foil in the same manner. Continue this throughout the entire hair line.

Thats It!!! Easy as...... Pie?

Thanks for reading :)

At Home Hair Color Nightmare! Hairstylists Do It Better; Period!

I hope you find this as funny and interesting as I do....


Procter & Gamble announced  Thursday they have recalled 10 shades of Clairol Natural Instincts hair coloring in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico, citing a mismatch that could potentially cause an undesired color.

Procter & Gamble stated that they discovered a mismatched sachet in the product's kits that could lead to a different color than intended.

The sachet is designed to give a boost of color to users' hair two weeks after an initial hair coloring stage.

Procter & Gamble said the primary hair colorant in the product is not affected by the recall, adding all of the products in the kit remain safe to use.

They are removing the products from stores. Consumers with one of the Clairol Natural Instincts kits can use everything in the product, including the main colorant and color conditioning treatment, but should discard the ColorFresh Revitalizer sachet.
Customers who have purchased the recalled shades can call Clairol for a replacement number at 866-493-0512.

The Natural Instincts shades affected by the recall are:
-- Shade 16 Light Auburn (Spiced Tea)
-- Shade 35 Brown Black (Ebony Mocha)
-- Creme Shade 03G Light Golden Blonde (Honey Creme)
-- Creme Shade 7.5 Dark Blonde (Maple Creme)
-- Creme Shade 21G Medium Golden Brown (Caramel Creme)
-- Creme Shade 23R Medium Auburn (Raspberry Creme)
-- Creme Shade 30R Dark Auburn (Cherry Creme)
-- Creme Shade 31 Darkest Brown (Coffee Creme)
-- Vibrant Shade 9 Natural Light Blonde (Blonde Vibrance)
-- Vibrant Shade 10 Extra Light Blonde (Sun-Kissed Blonde)


My Thoughts: Color in a box.... really? Just don't do it! We do it better every time and that I will guarantee. Design, integrity and consistency seem to be just a few of the things lacking in this box!

New Video: "How To Highlight Hair Technique" Multi Dimensional Hair Color Step by Step

Check out this great new video on a really quick and easy highlighting technique creating multi dimensional coloring. Only using 16 foils you will get a ton of color throughout the hair and an amazing low maintenance commitment to the color.

Sunday Fun Day? Here Is a FUN Hair Color Fact.

If your color is too "warm" and you are trying to Neutralize your color, you must use an equal proportion of the neutralizing color in order to create the perfect balance.

*For Example: Taking "orange" hair to a neutral/subtle warm brown you must use equal proportions of a "blue" to the proportions of "orange" found in the hair. In other words equal parts of orange and blue make neutral brown.

So you right now your probably thinking No S%*@? This is common sense right?

But there is more to this than you are probably thinking.

Look at it from this standpoint. If you had a 1 gallon bucket of Orange Paint and were trying to turn it neutral brown, you would need a 1 gallon bucket of Blue Paint to achieve your neutral brown result.

The same goes with hair color and that is the hard part. It is nearly impossible to know exactly how much Blue is needed in order to neutralize the Orange in the hair.

Meaning that if you attempted to neutralize an Orange blonde with an Ash Blonde with a Blue base and did not result in a balanced neutral blonde, but rather still warm blonde with a strong to sublet tone of orange.

However, there is a solution. There are two options:

1. Most hair color lines carry what are commonly known as Kickers. Kickers are additives to the color giving you the ability to increase tonal strength to your color. For instance when more concentration of blue is needed within the formula, you can use these additives/kickers of blue to increase the color strength of blue.

*Example Formula: 1 OZ of level 7AB (ash blue) + 1/2 OZ Blue Kicker

2. The lighter the level, the less concentration of pigment/tonal strength. What you can do is drop the level and increase the developer, thus giving you a stronger concentration of Blue pigment.

*Example: If your formula is a level 2 oz 7 AB with 20 volume and you know that you need more concentration of Blue pigment change your formula to: 2 oz 6 AB with 30 volume.

Saturday Night Color Formula!

For those of you who follow my Blog, you know I use Redken. However I am always willing to translate my color formulas as Universal as possible. Anyways..... I wanted to share a Kick Ass formula I just had the chance of doing tonight.

If you are looking to take your highlighted Golden Blond to the perfect Strawberry Blonde with a subtle Golden hint, (think Amy Adams) here is the perfect formula!

Whether or not you are looking to change the highlights or the entire color, this formula will TAKE YOU THERE!!

Glaze (Semi/Demi) Based Hair Color

- 1 oz 9 level Red Brown (redken - 9RB)

- 1/2 oz 8 level Warmest Gold - Orange/Yellow w/ a Brown Background (redken 8 WG)

Process for the full time as directed by the manufacturer.

Comments/Questions/Thoughts?

Elisabeth Moss debuted a new 'do at the International Emmy Awards in NYC on Monday. She lightened her normally brunette bob to a blonder, shaggier style. [StyleList]

BEFORE

AFTER

THOUGHTS:

Elisabeth is a beautiful girl with an amazing skin tone that could pretty much wear anything. After seeing her with the dark and the light next to each other I think I prefer her as a brunette, but the blonde she pulls off well. Her skin tone is perfect for both of these shades and she is one of those stars that can pretty much wear it all.

FORMULA:

Taking a brunette to a blonde can be rather difficult on previously color treated hair, but if done properly can be easy and beautiful.

Step 1: Know your desired tone and lightness. Ideally working from a brown golden shade it would be best for your desired result to stay within the warm golden family, as seen on Elisabeth in this picture.

Step 2: Decide the amount of blonde that is desired in the overall look. This will help you to determine the intensity of the blonde shade and amount of highlights that are necessary.

Step 3: Using a lightener, pre-lighten the hair to a level lighter than the end result (this will vary depending on the tone and lightness) by using a foil technique to match the desired intensity of blonde. Ideally you will want to highlight in a random fashion with lots of baby fine highlights.

*My suggestion - pre-lighten with a cream based lightener (10 - 30 volume depending on the texture) to a level 8/9 yellow color (pale yellow is not needed) *** If the hair is chemical treated on the ends but not in the regrowth (zone 1) you may need to adjust the formula in this section to a lower developer.

Step 4: Glaze the hair with the desired level and tonality.

*My suggestion - Glaze the hair with a Demi based hair color (such as shades EQ) level 8 Gold. My formula with a pre-lightened level 8/9 yellow would be equal parts 9G & 7GB. **Note: this changes according to the desired tonality and result of the pre-lightened color. It is also important that the pre-lightened color is equally lifted to a balanced result, if there is an inconsistency to the pre-lightened color, there will be an inconsistency to the end result.

THE END!!!

Great Article For Guests Looking To Go Dark

This is a fabulous article on any and all information about people wishing to enter the world of a brunette!

From the truths to the myths to the opinions as a stylists this has tons of information for your guests or for you to share with them!

Those of you who are non stylists this is a must read!

Check it out:

"

If you're thinking of going darker with your locks, winter is just around the corner! So, what are you waiting for?

"Women who choose a darker color create more contrast, giving the hair a fuller look with more definition and texture," says Ludovic Audesson, celebrity colorist at Pierre Michel Salon in New York City. "In addition to being very chic, dark hair is not trendy or a fad -- it's really more of a statement!"

If that's the case, why do so many women choose to go lighter?

........

Finish the article!

Hair Colorist Wednesday: Do Not Fear Green

Hot tip for the day!

Are your beautiful golden locks starting to turn red?

Has the tone lost it's vibrancy and starting to look like a flat auburn as opposed to a beautiful golden brown?

Don't Panic! We have a solution!!!

But first.......

Lets talk about why this has happened.

Your hair or guests hair has faded into this color, due to the exposure to the true or natural pigment.

What happens when we color our hair with a permanent dye is our hair's natural pigment is being lifted or lightened, very similar to what a bleach or lightener will do, just with a little more control. During that same process, the artificial pigment will begin to deposit or color over the now lightened hair.

A level 5-6, border line 7, which 99% of the time will be the level of the color that fades to that auburn/reddish color, will begin to shine through the artificial pigment due to fading. What you are actually seeing is a combination of natural (red/red orange/orange) and artificial pigments (golds and browns) blending together and visibly giving the appearance of auburn.

SO WHAT TO DO??

Step 1: Prevent! Use shampoos and conditioners that help to reduce and stop color fading. My choice? PureOlogy - truly you can not beat it!

Step 2 - When refreshing the ends, do not fear your green based dyes. Green is a natural balancer for red. So when formulating utilize your greens in offsetting red. You may not necessarily want to use just a green in your formula, especially when looking for a golden result. Remember we want to keep warmth and neutralize red, in other words maximize yellow and reduce red.

So enough of the blah blah blah.... on with the formula! My formula of choice.

On a level 5 this is the formula I would apply to the ends of my color. Using a Demi based color - in my case Redken Shades EQ

For a One & Half Ounce Formula

1 oz 5G (Gold) & 1/2 oz 6GN (Green/Yellow Base)

ENJOY!

Comments/Questions?

Hair Colorist Wednesday: Celebrity Hair Color Formula

This week we are going to break down Jessica Biel's new color. Thoughts, opinions, etc!

Tis the season to be brown right?

So lets start with my thoughts.

Personally, for me it's just a tad to dark. I think on her I would have loved to see a level lighter.

With that said, I would like to state that I am quite the fan of this color. I think it's a beautiful fall color and I love the concept of keeping the subtle dimension underneath.

Oooooober trendy in a subtle way and I am cool with that.

You know getting back to my opinion... as I am writing this I am looking back at her with this color and I know what would make me love this on her! It's the brows. Give her a darker or stronger brow and I am all in for this shade on her!

So enough with the fuss right? Lets get on with it. And of course this is my concept/opinion of the formula, I would love to hear yours as well!

Formula:

Looking at this shade I see a lot of depth and a lot of background. Not quite as much tonality to this shade. The process of filling is a non factor if formulated properly and working with two formulas - The top and bottom sections.

Lets start with the formula on top - Level 3N (Neutral) and equal parts Level 4G (Gold Brown) of your favorite Demi based permanent hair color.

Now the highlighted areas - Level 5G (Gold Brown) and equal parts Level 4WG (Warmest Gold Brown - yellow/orange tone)

What do you think?

Hair Colorist Wednesday: Color Formula!

Here is another great Color Formula!

This week we are taking our over highlighted medium to light blonde (Level 9) to a beautiful Golden Medium Brown with natural golden highlights.

Ready Set Go!

Starting Level: Natural Level 6 with Level 9 Blonde (Gold/Yellow) Highlights

Desired Level: Level 6 Golden Brown with Level 7 Golden Beige Highlights

Here are the steps!

Step 1: Retouch the previous highlights with a low level lightener, such as a powder lightener with a 10 volume developer. Apply this formula using baby fine highlights taking horizontal sections from the bottom to the top on both sides. Apply a conditioner based product, such as Cholesterol to the ends of the hair to isolate it inside of the foil.

Step 2: In between the foils apply - Formula #1 = 2 Parts Level 5 Gold - Shades 5G & 1 Part 4 Warmest Gold - Shades 4WG from roots to ends.

Step 3: Process for 20 min

Step 4: Shampoo Hair and Apply Glaze Formula from roots to ends (equal parts of Level 7 Golden Beige - Shades 7GB & Level 8 Warmest Gold - Shades 8WG)

Step 5: Process 20 min

Finished!!

Hair Colorist Wednesday: Color Formula!

Here is a great formula for Blondes I use all the time and oh so perfect for the Fall. We have talked a lot about taking blondes deeper and adding some more depth to your blonde. Well here is a fun way to take a NL 7 virgin guest to a perfect shade of dimensional blonde.

Base Level = 7

Alternate Formula 1, 2 & 3 in your standard formula manner for virgin application. Utilize extremely fine weaves throughout. The goal is to create an array of colors that give a beautiful dimension of color.

I use Redken Color So I will give you my Redken Formulas that I use. However, feel free to use the brand that you are most comfortable with.

1. Your favorite powder lightener with 20 volume (Redken Up to 7)

2. Your favorite high lift/double blonde Blue/Violet tone (Double Fusion = parts of AV & AB)

3. Demi-Permenant Level 7 Gold Tone (Shades EQ 7GB)

The result is beautiful and extremely low maintenance and pretty much the perfect color for a NL 7 looking to spice it up for the fall!

Hair Colorist Wednesday!: What Hair Color Is Right For Me? - Know Your Level & Tone!

A few blogs back I wrote about Redken's Art Of Consultation. I am going to bring that back into play today. I would like to talk a little bit about how to know your guests or those of you non stylists know your own shade.

There really is an easy process to this. I will break it down step by step to make it easy for you.

First my thoughts:

Prior to my current knowledge I was under the impression that anyone could be any color if the tonal value was correct for their skin/eye tone. As I became a little more vast in the art of color I discovered this is something I know longer believe. Some of you may disagree which is absolutely fine, color is very much a subjective illusion. I can only write my thoughts.

There are many ways to discover someones ideal tonal value for their skin/eye color, which we will discuss in a second.

When you discover the difference of tones and shades it truly is amazing what it does to a person when you find their perfect complimenting tones. As you start to identify these differences you really will begin to see LIFE brought back into the color of the eyes and skin!

Lets break it down:

Step 1: Discover the level. It is important to find what level, meaning how dark/light one should be. The best way to do this is to use your level finder. Place the different levels, with the hair back and out of the face, onto the persons face near the corner of their eye and pay attention to the effect the level has on their eye and skin color.

Step 2: Discover their skin tone (You can do this step first, I prefer to do this second). You are trying to determine whether the person is cool or warm. There are many ways to do this.
1. Use the Redken Art Of Consult skin tone finder.
2. Use both a gold (warm) and a platinum (cool) piece of fabric.
3. Examine the persons eye color.

When doing any of these you are determining which tone compliments their skin color. For instance if you are using fabric, my tool of choice, would be to place the fabric around the person and pay attention to how the fabric compliments their skin and eye, does it brighten and soften them up? Or does the fabric make them look dull?

Need more assistance in this process? I found this article to be very informative. Check It Out!

Step 3: Utilize the knowledge and know what works. If they tend to be warm, utilize warm colors such as coppers, warm reds, golds, etc. If they tend to be cool, utilize cool colors such as cool browns, platinum, mahogany, etc.

Once you have this information you put it all together and it makes formulating easy!! You have norrowed it down to exactly the level and tone that you need. From that point you can utilize color to balance out the facial shape and even have fun with it by incorporating multi-tone coloring that you know works great on your guest!

Hair Colorist Wednesday!: The Power Of Color

It's Time For This Week's Edition Of Hair Colorist Wednesday!!!

I found this absolutely wonderful video on the internet of how color can completely change the vision of an image and influence an array of imagination, inspiration and creativity.

Before I talk about why this relates to Hairdressers I want to share with you a little bit about this video.

This video was a collaboration of four different artists working from different areas around the globe & working together to create one masterpiece after the other by becoming inspired by color, shape and each other!

All of the artists were strangers who have never met and who come from different backgrounds. One is a student who was taking art classes on the side. One is an aspiring artist who was interested in a fine-art career. One is a hobby doodler. All were brought together from different parts of the globe to interact artistically in a way that wasn't even possible just a few years ago.

The participating artists didn't spend much time interacting with each other beforehand, but somehow the randomness become many birds and bird people. I asked that we change that into a Van Gogh starry-night image but make it a sunrise. That little bit of direction was all it took for the video to take off. Everyone's imagination was on overdrive. People who were watching would make up stories to go with what they saw, and that in turn influenced the artists. It was all people playing and killing time.

OK SO WATCH THE VIDEO....... Then My Blog Will Continue!

So why does this relate to Hair Colorists?

Well many reasons, first being the obvious. It's art and as a colorist art is naturally inspiring and informative!

But it so much more than the obvious. My goal was to share this with the intentions to express the power of color. Did you notice that throughout the video there was a point to which the picture changed before your eyes? Of course you did! It was so simple when you really break it down. By utilizing the combinations of color and shading to create depth and silhouettes, the picture was able to move and change right before our eyes.

The same principles relate to hair color. Color is simply light and depending on the reflection and absorption of certain light waves, changes the way we perceive the colors, depth and dimension of the hair.

It is amazing that by combining certain colors and blending certain colors together creates an illusion of what is perceived and allows us an infinite possibility of creation.

This is an amazing lesson; to follow the principles of color theory. Know your color wheel and understand the law of color within every formulation that you are working with. Take into consideration the colors your currently working with, to understand the colors you want to achieve, just like they did in the video.

Even though the video went quick, it was sped up and with out a doubt there was a thought process and a science put into the decision of what colors were going to be used to create the each segment of the video.

The most important message I want to share though, is let color and other works of art inspire you. Do not live in a bubble and definitely do become self absorbed! Become inspired by what you see everyday and appreciate others work, just like these artists did and allow your mind to take you to new possibilities!

What a wonderful world when hairdressers inspire hairdressers! We are so lucky!

Thank you for reading this post!

Hair Colorist Wednesday!: We Want To Know AH.... What You Think Of INOA

Yesterday I had the chance to learn a little bit about INOA hair color. The process of application. The benifits/features and so on. I am here to tell you a little bit about what I learned, share with you a few articles of what I have discovered, give you my final opinions and most important ask those of you who have used INOA what they know and think of the line!

HERE ARE SOME THINGS I LEARNED:

What Is INOA?: INOA is a L'Oreal professional hair color that is an odorless, ammonia-free permeant hair color that delivers the performance of a traditional permeant based color line. INOA uses an Oil Delivery System technology that is unique to the process of how normal hair color works and processes.

What is the Oil Delivery System: It is an oil based delivery system that maximizes the hair color process, while giving the hair 2x more lipid protection (think of this as strength/moisture building).

The 3 Major Benefits:

1. The comfort - No ammonia/smell/smooth texture

2. The Integrity - The hair strength/moisture is not only maintained but is fortified.

3. Infinite Hair Color Power - The unique system of oil deliver and true pigment tones allow for more options and strength in the power of hair color.

How Does It Work/Use It?:

INOA is a 3 step mixing process. You mix a gel and developer then at that point you mix your pigment. Think of it like mixing your tubes of color in a sense. The actual color tubes are extremely small. You are in essence creating your more common tube of color. ** Note though it is not traditional color in any way.

Application: You start from the bottom and work your way up and you keep the hair as flat as possible. From that point you process and then do a dry emulsification into a wet emulsification. Which at that point you rinse.

** Note I am not an INOA educator nor do I endorse this process of application. This is what I picked up from what I learned and sharing with you guys. It is required that you have formal training with this color prior to any form of application which I do 100% recommend.

Lets take a look at some sites, reviews and comments around the web.

1. Well of course you should start with their site.

2. This was a great! look into the whole process and before & after shots.

3. Interesting blurb about how INOA will eventually take over other L'Oreal professional brands.

4. Organic Color Systems makes a stand that INOA is False advertising and in fact there is ammonia.... interesting if nothing else? Maybe we will have to do some further research!

5. Fun blurb from American Salon, but some fun comments from stylists as well.

6. Some more interesting comments with a blurb.

7. One Last Blog.

MY THOUGHTS:

I want to do a little more research. It seem intresting. It also seems intresting how some one is arguing agaisnt the "ammonia free." Clearly there was ammonia hydroxide - which I know to be ammonia water essentially. I am going to do a little more research on this product line and play with it and write my own testimonals. I promise I will speak from the heart and truthfully.

NOW I WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!!!

Hair Colorist Wednesday!: Great Fall Formula!

Looking to take your clients from their summer blondes to a great fall shade?

Check out this great formula:

Where are we?:

Base: NL =7

Ends: Heavily Highlighted with a combination of level 9 & 10+ Highlights

What do we want to be?:

A Warm Brown Copper

Level 6/7

With Subtle Hues of Dimension

Similar to Ashlee Simpsons seen here.

Formula:

Using a Non Ammonia Demi Based Hair Color (like Shades EQ or PM Shines)

MIX #1:

1/2 oz 6 Level Natural Brown Base (PM Shines 6NB or Redken 6NB)

1 & 1/2 oz 6 Level Red Orange (PM Shines 2 parts 6RO 1 part 9RO or Redken 7RO)

** For a little more Red effect use 1/4 oz less of the NB and add 1/4 oz of a Red Brown (PM Shines 6RB or Redken 6RB) to the formula

MIX #2:

1/4 oz 7NB

3/4 oz 7RO

1/8 oz Orange Kicker/Additive

Application:

1. Separate the top from the bottom with a horse shoe section that extends from high recession to recession.

2. Apply Formula #1 to the entire bottom section.

3. Release top section and in horizontal partings 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick depending on the density of the hair, alternate formula #1 & #2 throughout the top section.

4. Making sure that a 1 inch section is taken at the point of the clients part, apply formula 2 to this region. This will keep it strong and vibrant through the top.

5. Taking formula 1, lightly brush formula from the hair line back to about a 1/2 inch into the hair to blend the to formulas around the hair line. This will give a less striped more blended effect around the hair line.