You've Got Questions?? We've Got Answers!: How do I fade from a 000 to a 4 with oster 76?

Question:  How do I fade from a 000 to a 4 with oster 76?

When it comes to fading hair it's all about the motion of your wrist in conjunction with the clippers and guards.

So knowing you have a great pair of clippers, The "Oster 76" Classics, you know you're on the right track to giving a great seamless hair haircut.



Once you have the right pair of clippers, make sure you have a great pair of guards. This is crucial to creating your hair cut. The more guards you have, the more control you will have over your cut and again, the more seamless your cut will be.

Check out these guards which are perfect for the Oster brand clippers:

So, now that you have all of the equipment here is what you need to do! We broke it down step by step:

1. Starting with your largest desired guard (in this case size:4). Begin cutting the hair from the base of the hair line sliding the clippers all the way up to the base of the crown. The clippers should roll off of the crown area with a slight flick of the wrist. Continue doing this motion until you have completed the entire back and side areas.
 ** If you wish the top of the hair to be cut with a 4 guard then you will cut the entire head with a 4 guard first. If you wish for more length through the top, then you will roll off at the crown like stated.

2. Decrease your guard to the second largest (in this case: 3 or 3.5). *Please note if you have half sizes, this will make the cut more seamless. Repeat the process from step one, only roll off from the head slightly lower from the previous point (once again with a slight flick of the wrist as you roll off).

3. You will continue to repeat this processes decreasing in guard size and slowly moving down the head. The point in which you blend your fade should slowly be moving down towards the hairline.

4. Once all of the sides and back have been finished, using a scissor over comb method, begin blending your lines even further with a texture based shear. This will help to create softness and precision in your cut.

**Skip Steps 5 and 6 if you cut the entire head in step one with your largest guard. If you wished for more length through the top continue on with the remaining steps:
5. Using a scissor over comb technique and using a texture shear, begin rolling the comb, starting slightly bellow the crown, finishing towards the top of the crown. The desired length should be determined prior to cutting and you will visually create your length using the scissor over comb technique.

6. Once the length on the sides is blended into the length on the top, begin cutting the rest of the top length with a blunt shear, using a 90 degree cutting technique.

7. Once finished, remove all guards from the clippers and edge the sides according to the desired look. If necessary use a T shaped clipper for the edging. This will give you more control, as this what they are designed for; need a great one? Check out this edger:



That pretty much sums it up!! Hope this helps!

Also be on the look out for mens cutting videos, as we are in the process of filming multiple Hair Cutting Videos for THSB which will all be free and on our THSB TV on YouTube.

If you have questions we have answers, so don't be afraid to ask!!!

New Cutting Techniques

Hair DesignerTV is always creating new ways for you to learn!

Check out This New Workshop by the one, the only Vivienne Mackinder!

HairDesignerTV Workshops

Looking for a more instant form of education? Make sure to check out the HairDesignerTV's Online Academy. I highly recommend visiting this vast source of information and education!

ONLINE ACADEMY!

Free Live Web Education Seminar!

Make sure to registar today! for the Sam Villa Web Show from BTC.

Visit Here now! to sign up.

Hair Colorist Wednesday! Continued!!

So... Where did we leave off?? .......

Thats right introducing you to Hair Colorist Wednesday!

Taking your Dull, Yellow, Blondes to A Beautiful, Shiny, Dimensional Blonde!

So my guest arrived and her hair was very typical highlighted blonde Natural Level 7. I see this more than anything else in my salon. Very blonde, very dull and not so very dimensional.

So lets break it down. What I did. Why I did it. How I did it and most importantly what I will do in the future.

Unfortunately do to technical difficulties or my accidental erasing of the picture.. we lost the before picture :( However, we do have the after picture! And in many ways its the most important. So when wondering what that before picture look liked, just think about that client that I described earlier.

Notice the depth and dimension of the within the bangs and underneath, while still maintaing a strong vibrant shade of blonde throughout the top layer.

So here we go.......

What I did: First off we are always going to access hair color the same exact way. Always! Where are we, well we covered that, so... where do we want to go and how do I get there. So lets rephrase this to....

Our Goal/Desired Look (Where do I want to be?): Strong Vibrant shades of Cool/Vanilla Blonde throughout top layer with soft dimensional natural dark blonde/light brown shades peaking through underneath.

And now the....

What I Did: First things first. Anytime you are starting with a new client always pretreat the hair. Also anytime you are working with blondes, pretreat the hair. In fact 99% of Hair Color should start with pretreatment. So naturally, we pretreated with a clarifying treatment - in this case Pureology Puriffy Shampoo and we used Pureology's Essential Repair Conditioning Treatment prior to our color service.

Now on to the good stuff:

There was no reason to lighten all of the blonde that we have. However, we can utilize the blonde that we currently have to give us a multi tonal blonde.So we Highlighted using a standard highlight placement with a powder lightener and 20 volume pro-oxide developer and pulled a 10 volume lightener through every third foils ends for a lighter shade of blonde, however most important part! We left out 2 large triangles on the sides. Within these triangular sides this is where we will create our dimensional color. We will use Redken shades EQ Formula of 1 oz 7NB and 1 0z 7G. Taking back to back weaving foils in a diagonal formation from bottom of the triangle sides to the top we applied the shades formula to create our natural dimension back into our hair color.

Once processed we glazed over the hair using a Shades EQ Formula of: 1/2 oz of 9v and 1 1/2 oz Clear

Why I Did It: Using these formulas and pre treatments for the blonde will allow a multi tonal shade of blonde but at the same time keeping the hairs strength and integrity in mind.

Using the triangular side technique for the dark allowed us to have a multi dimensional shade of colors without loosing the strong vibrancy of blonde throughout the top.

Glazing the hair allowed us to diminish the amount of yellow within the blonde hair and give us the more Cool/Vanilla shades that we desired.

In The Future: We will continue to highlight with a powder lightner and a 20 volume pro-oxide developer in a standard highlighting fashion however, we will continue to leave out the triangular sides and not foil anything in these areas. If you find that you are in need of more depth within these areas repeat the triangular sides and add the dimensional level 7 color. Important: you may need to alter the formulation depending on where you are starting.

Questions/Comments?? Shoot......

How to properly apply hair color.

Recently I attended an amazing color class and I thought I would share a little bit about my new application discovery's with you.

Now possibly this might not be news for some of you? But for me and those of you who do find this as news, I think you will enjoy.

So we are taught when applying hair color to saturate the hair and apply to both sides of the section, especially on the gray, yes? Well in my case yes and as a colorist its something I have been doing for years.

Next time do 2 things different.

1. Take 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch sections, depending on density and porosity of the hair and apply your hair color to just the back of each section. By doing this the small sections and the compression will keep your color properly saturated and safe from the possibility of overlapping of color.

and...

2. When working around the hair line, especially grays, try using a brow brush to apply the color, to keep the color from smearing on to the scalp and prevent color from staining the skin.
These new hot tips have worked wonders for me, not only in time, but results. I urge you all to give it a go!

Pureology Serious Color Care

Hello everyone! I (gregory) am currently in Savahanna, Ga taking a pureology serious color care course.

I can't wait to share with all of you everything I learned!

I am going to take some video blogs of my trip and some info about everything that I did. If you want to learn more about Pureology. Please visit their site @: Pureology.com