Sunday, March 20, 2011

Sunday Fun Day? Here Is a FUN Hair Color Fact.

If your color is too "warm" and you are trying to Neutralize your color, you must use an equal proportion of the neutralizing color in order to create the perfect balance.

*For Example: Taking "orange" hair to a neutral/subtle warm brown you must use equal proportions of a "blue" to the proportions of "orange" found in the hair. In other words equal parts of orange and blue make neutral brown.

So you right now your probably thinking No S%*@? This is common sense right?

But there is more to this than you are probably thinking.

Look at it from this standpoint. If you had a 1 gallon bucket of Orange Paint and were trying to turn it neutral brown, you would need a 1 gallon bucket of Blue Paint to achieve your neutral brown result.

The same goes with hair color and that is the hard part. It is nearly impossible to know exactly how much Blue is needed in order to neutralize the Orange in the hair.

Meaning that if you attempted to neutralize an Orange blonde with an Ash Blonde with a Blue base and did not result in a balanced neutral blonde, but rather still warm blonde with a strong to sublet tone of orange.
However, there is a solution. There are two options:

1. Most hair color lines carry what are commonly known as Kickers. Kickers are additives to the color giving you the ability to increase tonal strength to your color. For instance when more concentration of blue is needed within the formula, you can use these additives/kickers of blue to increase the color strength of blue.
*Example Formula: 1 OZ of level 7AB (ash blue) + 1/2 OZ Blue Kicker

2. The lighter the level, the less concentration of pigment/tonal strength. What you can do is drop the level and increase the developer, thus giving you a stronger concentration of Blue pigment.
*Example: If your formula is a level 2 oz 7 AB with 20 volume and you know that you need more concentration of Blue pigment change your formula to: 2 oz 6 AB with 30 volume.

No comments:

Post a Comment