Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Hair Colorist Wednesday! Continued!!

So... Where did we leave off?? .......

Thats right introducing you to Hair Colorist Wednesday!

Taking your Dull, Yellow, Blondes to A Beautiful, Shiny, Dimensional Blonde!

So my guest arrived and her hair was very typical highlighted blonde Natural Level 7. I see this more than anything else in my salon. Very blonde, very dull and not so very dimensional.

So lets break it down. What I did. Why I did it. How I did it and most importantly what I will do in the future.

Unfortunately do to technical difficulties or my accidental erasing of the picture.. we lost the before picture :( However, we do have the after picture! And in many ways its the most important. So when wondering what that before picture look liked, just think about that client that I described earlier.

Notice the depth and dimension of the within the bangs and underneath, while still maintaing a strong vibrant shade of blonde throughout the top layer.
So here we go.......

What I did: First off we are always going to access hair color the same exact way. Always! Where are we, well we covered that, so... where do we want to go and how do I get there. So lets rephrase this to....

Our Goal/Desired Look (Where do I want to be?): Strong Vibrant shades of Cool/Vanilla Blonde throughout top layer with soft dimensional natural dark blonde/light brown shades peaking through underneath.

And now the....

What I Did: First things first. Anytime you are starting with a new client always pretreat the hair. Also anytime you are working with blondes, pretreat the hair. In fact 99% of Hair Color should start with pretreatment. So naturally, we pretreated with a clarifying treatment - in this case Pureology Puriffy Shampoo and we used Pureology's Essential Repair Conditioning Treatment prior to our color service.

Now on to the good stuff:
There was no reason to lighten all of the blonde that we have. However, we can utilize the blonde that we currently have to give us a multi tonal blonde.So we Highlighted using a standard highlight placement with a powder lightener and 20 volume pro-oxide developer and pulled a 10 volume lightener through every third foils ends for a lighter shade of blonde, however most important part! We left out 2 large triangles on the sides. Within these triangular sides this is where we will create our dimensional color. We will use Redken shades EQ Formula of 1 oz 7NB and 1 0z 7G. Taking back to back weaving foils in a diagonal formation from bottom of the triangle sides to the top we applied the shades formula to create our natural dimension back into our hair color.

Once processed we glazed over the hair using a Shades EQ Formula of: 1/2 oz of 9v and 1 1/2 oz Clear

Why I Did It: Using these formulas and pre treatments for the blonde will allow a multi tonal shade of blonde but at the same time keeping the hairs strength and integrity in mind.

Using the triangular side technique for the dark allowed us to have a multi dimensional shade of colors without loosing the strong vibrancy of blonde throughout the top.

Glazing the hair allowed us to diminish the amount of yellow within the blonde hair and give us the more Cool/Vanilla shades that we desired.

In The Future: We will continue to highlight with a powder lightner and a 20 volume pro-oxide developer in a standard highlighting fashion however, we will continue to leave out the triangular sides and not foil anything in these areas. If you find that you are in need of more depth within these areas repeat the triangular sides and add the dimensional level 7 color. Important: you may need to alter the formulation depending on where you are starting.

Questions/Comments?? Shoot......

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